by Pa Rock
An American Abroad
Sunday, 24 April 2016:
An American Abroad
Sunday, 24 April 2016:
It is a beautiful day in Havana, cloudless blue skies and a pleasant breeze.
After a nice breakfast buffet and the Hotel Capri, our group
boarded a bus for the Cementario de Cristobal Colon – 138 acres of family tombs and
grave sites ranging from simple markers to million dollar structures (by today’s
prices). Over two million people are
interred in that cemetery in one way or another – some in elaborate tombs and
others just in simple boxes.
We saw the tomb of Jose Marti’s parents, a few former
Presidents of Cuba, and many dignitaries in the fields of politics, art, and
entertainment. Following the
revolution in the late 1950's, most private property was seized by the state, but
one exception was the old family tombs
whose ownership was retained by the families buried there.
There was a funeral occurring in the cemetery chapel while
we were there. We were told that about
four funerals a day occur at the cemetery – and that there is almost no cost at all for a
funeral – just ten pesos a year for upkeep of the grave. The government of Cuba pays the expenses of
the burials.
I did participate in a tradition regarding a woman named
Amelia who died many years ago in childbirth.
Her husband would visit the grave of Amelia and their baby each day, knock on the
tomb three times with a brass ring, and then exit the site walking
backward. Now tourists and people
needing special considerations and dispensations visit the site and perform the same ritual. After knocking three times with the brass
ring, they step up to the monument, touch the sculpture of Amelia and the baby,
and make a wish and then exit backward. My wish was for long
and healthy lives for my grandchildren.
Amelia’s grave is the only one in the entire cemetery that is constantly
covered with fresh flowers.
Our second stop was at an art museum where a knowledgeable
guide gave us a most interesting talk on Cuban art as we toured two floors
containing over a thousand paintings.
Some of the more contemporary pop art featured images of people who
helped to structure the twentieth century, folks like Ho Chi Minh, V.I. Lenin,
and George Harrison (of the Beatles).
The most common visage in the museum was that of Cuba’s iconic
revolutionary, Che Guevara – in fact, Guevara’s image is so prevalent in modern
Cuba that is almost impossible to go
anywhere without seeing a grinning El Che staring back at you.
A while ago I walked from my hotel to the famous Malecon –
or sea wall. There, on the street
between the memorial to the U.S.S. Maine and the Malecon, someone had painted a
small portrait of Che. He seems to
embody the true spirit of the revolution – even more so than Fidel and Raul Castro.
Our lunch was at a nice Italian restaurant in a cultural
center near the art museum. I wound up
sitting next to Peter Kornbluh, a political author (Back Channel to Cuba with William LeGrande) and writer for The Nation magazine, our trip
sponsor. Peter said that he has made
eighty-some trips to Cuba since the early 1990’s – usually flying in by way of
Nassau. He answered lots of questions
about Cuba during lunch. At the point
when the conversation was lagging, I leaned over and asked him where Fidel
lived. That seemed to have caught him
off-guard. He repeated the question, and
then answered, “That’s a state secret.”
Kornbluh has interviewed Fidel Castro, so I suspect that he knows exactly
where El Jefe lives, but that was not something he was going to share with just
any old tourist.
After a lunch of salad, pizza, and pasta, we retired to a
small bar in the back of the cultural center where we were given a presentation
on the history of Cuban music – and featured some wonderful instrumental and
vocal jazz. The twenty-two-year-old
keyboardist in the group by the name of Miguel had just returned from playing
with the Preservation Hall Jazz Band
in New Orleans. All three
instrumentalists, the keyboardist, drummer, and bass player, were amazing.
In fact, most of what I have encountered so far in Cuba is
fairly amazing. The people are very open
and welcoming, and they seem comfortable conducting their daily lives among the
growing influx of tourists. One thing we
learned over lunch is that there is now officially a beer shortage in Cuba
thanks to all of the thirsty Americanos.
The first United States cruise ship will arrive next Monday.
The times are changing fast in Cuba!